Exploring the Marvels of Pigmentation
Firstly, let’s delve into the wonderful world of pigmentation… What is it? What causes it? Why do we get it?
For a starting point, it is a pretty common skin condition. A majority of us will have a form of skin pigmentation at some point in our lives. Whether that’s sun damage, acne scars, hormones or just genetics. To summarise it occurs due to a combination of genetic, environmental, and physiological factors. The primary determinant of skin pigmentation is a pigment called melanin, which is produced by specialized cells called melanocytes. Let’s break this down further:
Genetic Factors: Our genetic makeup plays a significant role in determining our skin pigmentation. Genes passed down from our parents influence the amount and type of melanin produced in our skin. So thank your grandparents/parents if this runs in the family!
Acne - Acne once healed can leave behind areas of discolouration on the skin, typically darker than the surrounding skin (hyperpigmentation). Acne inflammation triggers an overproduction of melanin. This excess melanin becomes concentrated in certain areas during healing, forming dark spots or patches. The severity and duration of the pigmentation varies depending on skin type, the intensity of the inflammation, and how well the acne was managed (basically - don’t pick your spots girls!)
Melanin Production: When stimulated by various factors like UV radiation, hormones, and inflammation, melanocytes produce and distribute melanin to nearby skin cells.
Sun Exposure: UV radiation is a significant external factor affecting skin pigmentation. When exposed to UV rays, melanocytes increase melanin production as a protective response. This leads to tanning, which is the skin's defence mechanism against further UV damage.
Hormonal Changes: Hormonal fluctuations can impact skin pigmentation. For example, during pregnancy, some women may experience hyperpigmentation/melasma. Increased hormone levels, specifically estrogen, stimulate and produces more melanin in certain areas of the skin.
Environmental Factors: Pollutants, certain chemicals, and medications, can influence skin pigmentation. Some medications, for example, may cause skin discolouration as a side effect.
So now we know what it is, why we get it. Let’s break it down what we can do!
The most common cause is Sun Exposure so for this reason…. SPF, SPF AND MORE SPF! I know we all want tanned faces but would you rather have a clear complexion with even skin tone and a pale face or a patchy tanned face? Sun exposure actually caused my pigmentation - I love a good tan, the sun, I can lie in it for hours. But reversing the signs of sun damage is going to take time!
Here’s my own pigmentation journey, how it started vs how it’s going.
Then: Sundamaged, uneven skin tone, acne scars. Skin in general looked dull.
Now: smoother complexion, even skin tone, skin is more plump, youthful & glowy.
My skin aim was to smooth the complexion and even the skin tone. It’s hard to tell from these pictures but my pores were quite enlarged. The texture of my skin looked rough and in general dull and aged. I always used to think my skin looked ‘Dirty” from the pigmentation. I wanted ‘Glass looking skin’ with a pore-less-looking complexion. BTW…. on the note of pores, you can not permanently shrink pores. However, you can minimise their appearance by keeping them clear of oil and debris and boosting your skin's collagen and elastin. These steps also prevent pores from growing larger - Protection from the sun is a must to avoid losing collagen and elastin from skin damage. Sun damage isn’t just the cause of pigmentation - but also enlarged pores. On the note of pores…. That’s a whole story on its own - I will talk about all things ‘Pores’ in my next blog.
Pigmentation from sun damage - 2021
July 2023
Now let’s get down to the nitty-gritty of what I used and why…
if you read my previous blog post you will know I suffered from Acne - so firstly I targeted the breakouts. The post shows you which products I used to clear my complexion. What this did leave me with was acne scarring. Add in a little sunshine to the mix -I was then covered with pigmentation from sun damage. Leaving me all with a very uneven skin tone.
The Lumi-Spa will forever be a staple in every skincare routine I have - I switch routines seasonally, but the LumiSpa is the consistent product I use. Depending on my skin needs I will switch between the Dry and Blemish control cleanser.
I am a huge fan of skin cycling - Skin cycling is essentially a way to give your skin a break – alternating powerful active ingredients with soothing rest days to aid the growth and repair cycle of the skin.
In short, the goal is to shed your skin by increasing cell turnover and exfoliation and lightening the darker patches/scarring. I used a mixture of active ingredients to do both. It was trial and error, I have used practically everything on the market from medical grade skincare to supermarket/drug store skincare brands to find which works best.
Ingredients/products needed and why…
Cleansers - one for active days - one for non-active days. (By active I mean active ingredients which I will get to later)
Hydrating cleanser (non active ingredient) - AM/PM This will be essential for none active ingredient days unless you want your skin to flake which will slow down your healing days and pro-long more healing in between active sessions. It’s a common misconception that adding more hydration to your skin will cause it to be more oily and most associate oil with producing acne, BUT this is not true - the more hydration the better your skin barrier will be and your skin recovers quicker. Especially when you are using lots of active ingredients. The purpose of active ingredients is to increase cell turnover and exfoliation - both of which will dry your skin out.
I use the Dry Cleanser alongside the LumiSpa.
- An active Vitamin C cleanser (active ingredient) - AM/PM - to fade and lighten the pigmentation. I love Vitamin C - mainly because of its multi-purpose benefits. Not only is it the best for fading pigmentation and brightening the skin it’s an amazing anti-ageing product. Other benefits include;
Pore size - By reducing inflammation and promoting skin healing, vitamin C serum can effectively shrink enlarged pores and give the skin a smoother and more even appearance.
Collagen producing - Strengthens the collagen fibre’s in the skin, increasing elasticity and making the pores appear smaller over time.
Dark eye circles - By acting as a moisturizer - Vitamin C contains hydrating and moisturizing properties which help to nourish the under-eye areas. Often dry and dehydrated under-eyes can make the dark circles even worse. Using vitamin C will ensure that the area receives enough hydration and looks plump and radiant.
Both cleansers are found here to buy. Discount applied at checkout.
Toners - As Before an active and soothing toner is required.
- Salicylic Acid Toner ( active ingredient) - AM/PM - Toners with salicylic acid can help speed up the exfoliation of dead skin cells. Salicylic acid helps to gently break down dead skin cells on the surface of your skin and penetrates deep inside your pores. This is my go-to toner - I used this to help with my outbreaks also as it clarifies the skin. If I am not using retinal I use this every day!
- Ph Balance Toner (non-active ingredient) - AM/PM Using a PH balance toner gives you a burst of hydration and this little gem balances the PH in your skin at the same time. Helping your skin maintain its natural moisture and protect the skin barrier.
Both toners are found here to buy. Discount applied at checkout.
Serums
- Niamincide - AM/PM - It helps to visibly minimise enlarged pores, tighten lax pores, improve uneven skin tone, soften fine lines & wrinkles, diminish dullness and strengthen a weakened surface. I have tried them all! Best one by far and it’s an amazing price is The Ordinary. I use this every morning and night all year round another staple in my skincare routine for all its multi benefits. With this, you will notice results within 4 weeks - it’s all about consistency, don’t give up after 2 weeks!
I order mine here on Amazon.
Also available here on Look Fantastic.
- Hyaluronic Acid - AM/PM - The ultimate hydration ingredient. I use the Hyaluronic with B5. B5 is what helps your skin retain and hold hydration and hyaluronic acid is actually my favourite ingredient for many reasons - adding moisture plumps your skin - that added plumpness smooths your skin texture at the same time as reducing fine lines & wrinkles.
Hyaluronic Acid serum is found here to buy. Discount applied at checkout.
- Retinal - PM - I skin cycle (2-3 times a week) with this product as it makes my skin peel - also this is more of a winter product to use as I found it made my skin more sensitive and prone to more pigmentation when used in the summer due to the fact Retinal rapidly increases cell turnover. I use the Medic8 Retinal - the highest strength which I did build up to over time. Be prepared when you get to the higher strengths for your skin to peel and shred! I will save a video of this on my skin blog highlight but if used correctly alongside lots of hydration with the right moisturisers your skin will shed off in sheets rather than looking flakey. It’s really important to protect your skin barrier so you don’t damage your skin.
I use retinal over retinol because Retinal is the only form of vitamin A with antibacterial properties, making it perfect for oily or blemish-prone complexions.
Start with strength 6 and build up to the maximum strength.
Available on Amazon.
Also available here on Look Fantastic.
Moisturisers -
Thirst Fix - AM/PM - With using so many active ingredients on your skin to speed up skin renewal and exfoliation your skin will need added moisture. Having suffered with an oily T-zone I opted for Thirst fix gel as this is a gel formula that adds hydration and balances excess oils without leaving your skin greasy. It’s a large pot which I use morning and night and this lasts a few months. Value for money this product is the best.
The clinical results of the thirst fix - after one single application subjects experienced +173% immediate hydration* and +104% hydration after 12 hours*
Pillow Glow - PM - This is a nighttime skin mask which you apply after your moisturiser. It’s a gel-cream - so again - not heavy on the skin so you won’t feel oily. The formula uses bioadaptive botanicals which means the ingredients will balance the skin, and increase skin resilience whilst protecting and repairing the skin barrier. On top of this, it has anti-inflammatory properties which help calm irritated or sensitive skin and redness. Perfect for this with skin conditions such as rosacea. If your looking to wake up with glossy plump skin this is the one. It’s clinically proven to increase skin glow and luminosity overnight, so it looks and feels healthier the next morning.
Both moisturisers are found here to buy. Discount applied at checkout.
SPF
SkinCeuticals advanced pigment corrector 50 spf - AM - This sunscreen is an ultra-lightweight formula with ingredients that target a brighter, more even complexion. Formulated with 1% Tranexamic Acid and 2% Niacinamide, this sunscreen is clinically proven to improve skin clarity and brightness and reduce the appearance of discolouration, whilst protecting the skin
Available here on Look Fantastic.
Weekly Actives -
AHA peel pads - These babies are golden nuggets!!! What are they? - A group of active acids - Alpha Hydroxy Acids - with exfoliating and skin-renewing properties. So many benefits with these babies and a staple in my skincare routine. 16 Pads to a pot and I use these twice a week. If you struggle with cakey makeup - use these before applying makeup for smooth make-up application.
Exfoliation: AHA acids work by gently dissolving dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, helping to reveal newer, smoother skin underneath improving skin texture and brightness.
Skin Renewal: Regular use promotes skin cell turnover, which helps with reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation.
Improved Skin Tone: AHA acids can help fade dark spots, sun spots, and uneven skin tone by exfoliating the top layer of skin and encouraging the growth of fresh, even-toned skin cells.
Enhanced Absorption: By removing dead skin cells and unclogging pores, AHA peel pads can enhance the absorption of other skincare products like serums and moisturizers.
Smooth Skin Texture: AHA acids smoothen the texture of the skin, making it feel softer and more supple.
Acne and Blemishes: AHAs help with managing acne-prone skin by keeping pores clear and preventing the buildup of dead skin cells that can contribute to breakouts.
Peel pads are found here to buy. Discount applied at checkout.